Manang, Nepal

Manang, Nepal

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Holá desde Tarragona España

 Holá amigos,

Tarragona is the name of the town and of the province.  I am in the province, not the town.  I am about an hour south of Barcelona by train.  From the top of a nearby hill I can see the Mediterranean Sea.  I am here on my first WWOOFing adventure.  WWOOF, if you never heard of it, stand for Worldwide Organization of Organic Farms.  Workers choose places they would like to volunteer, in exchange for food and a place to stay, and then contact the host farm to see if they are looking for any help.  I bought a yearlong membership for WWOOF España (20Euro) which got me access to hundreds of profiles of farms in Spain.  I chose Tarragona because I like the way it sounds.  I chose this farm because they were the first to respond to my email.  It is not a farm, exactly; it is actually a house with a garden.  They are a young couple with a 2 year old son who are living here on the land in exchange for work and improvements on the property.  They immediately won my heart because they picked me up from the train at 11pm, when I was supposed to arrive at 7:30, and had a lovely dinner with homemade olive oil, delicious wine and great conversation waiting for me when I arrived here at almost midnight. 

The living situation here reminds me of a combo of my dear friend Iris’ first house and the place I lived in Alderpoint, CA.  Limited running water, the drinking water comes from a friend’s property and we shower at the pool in town, and solar power which is a recent addition.  The house is a beautiful, old stone structure which would look perfectly at home in Nepal.  I have seen a few like it in the area, apparently is a typical design here, too.  There is no fridge, which really works just fine- there is a storage room which stays cool because of all the stone.  They do not own it, but live here in trade for fixing the place up and basically keeping it from being vandalized or just ruined with time.  It seems that petty theft and vandalism are pretty common in Spain.  Funny to have to come to the “civilized” world to be ripped off!

We feed the compost pile, the dogs and sometimes ourselves by ‘recycling’.  That is a euphemism for dumpster diving.  There are a few places that they found out about from friends which often throw out day old bread or fruits and veggies that have passed their prime.  If there is meat they cook it for the dogs.  If the bread is bagged separately and clean they keep it for us and likewise the veggies.  We have made some delicious jams with pears and strawberries that would have otherwise been wasted.  The tomatoes get made into sauces with fresh herbs that grow wild everywhere here.  Rosemary is an absolute weed!  I did a bit of ‘recycling’ in my traveling days, never out of necessity as much as curiosity.  In Arizona we would collect food to cook up for Food Not Bombs, who feed homeless people in Tucson and elsewhere.  The Tucson branch used to cook their meals in the co-op house I lived in briefly.  It is amazing and sad that in a world where so many people do not have enough to eat there is so much food wasted every day.  We have found imported foods from South America.  Imagine the trip made by this item, only to end up as garbage.  It is quite common here, too; today we saw an Audi parked beside a dumpster- its owner combing through the contents.

I am planning on traveling south to Valencia next.  It will be hard to leave here.  One of the people here is from the U.S. and the comfort and security of having a native English speaker is nice.  But I came here to get my Spanish, and I will do it faster if I have to use it, although she and I do speak in Spanish, too.   According to her and verified by others, it takes about 3 months of immersion to begin to really understand what is being said all around you.  Three months seems like a long time, but considering I have been half assed studying Spanish for over 3 years now I will be pleased to finally start seeing some real results!  I have already spoken more Spanish in the last week than in the 3 years prior.  That’s why they call it immersion, I guess.

On the other side, my English teaching TEFL certification is progressing.  I am on Unit 15 of 20!  After I finish the first certificate I am also signed up to do one for teaching business English and also for teaching children.  So, I have all bases covered.  I have been told that there is a definite need for English teachers in Barcelona.  I don’t know about working here as a non-European, but I have met a lot of Latin Americans who are working here legally, so it must not be impossible.  If anyone has any tips or connections, let me know.  I will begin looking for teaching opportunities here in the next week or so.  

The Canary Islands have come into my sphere a lot recently, too.  I think after my time in mainland Spain I will go to Morocco for a bit and then to the Canaries.  I am already trying to make contacts thru WWOOF. 
Any suggestions on thing to see here in Spain, in Morocco, in the Canaries or elsewhere are always appreciated  :)

Namaste from Nepal


Hello Friends,
Greetings and Namaste from Pokhara, Nepal.  I hope this message is finding you in good health and good spirits.  Mom and I just returned here yesterday from our three week trek thru the Annapurna region in northwest Nepal.  It was an awesome, amazing journey.  Beautiful and difficult and everything in between, sometimes all at once!  I will be posting pics on Facebook soon so, for those of you who are receiving this by email, you can use my email address to find me on FB if you want to see pics.  I’m working on using another photo sharing medium (suggestions are welcome) but I have not decided on one for now. 
 
My mom had found a wonderful guide service on the internet in the states before we left called 3 Sisters.  They train and employ women and also fund women’s empowerment programs in Nepal.  We hired three ladies, a guide and two helpers, Bighuati, Anita and Chija.  They were absolutely wonderful and so much fun to share the journey with.  They taught me some useful Nepali phrases and ten had fun laughing at me as I made up my own.  In addition to learning some Nepali, we learned so much more  about al sorts of things than we would have if we were trekking alone.  We learned about the areas we were passing through, names of plants and animals, what people were growing in their gardens,  and even occasionally a bit of town gossip!  We even had the wonderful experience of leaving all our bags, unguarded, on the sidewalk at a bus stop in a small town while we went for lunch and having them all be there when we got back! You could not do that anywhere in the US. That was when I decided that this is a place that I could live.  

Ours was an 18 day trek but we both decided that, if we had it to do over again, we would do it in ~25 days so we could stay extra days in some of the town we found most interesting, or in the ones with the nicest guest houses.  Like the guest house in Muktinath which actually had gas heated hot water in an ATTACHED bathroom with a FLUSH toilet!!!  We were speechless.  Or the one in Jomsom which was the cleanest by far on the entire journey.   I would have stayed a week n the guest house in Thorang Phedi, even though it had no shower and no flush toilet anywhere because the owners sons were wonderful musicians and one of them had the coolest girlfriend visiting from New York.  They had a real guitar, with all 6 strings that was actually in tune!  Again, speechless.  It was the only guitar like that we found on the entire journey.  They taught me a wonderful little song that can be played equally well on both the guitar and the ukulele.  I would have stayed in the Fish Tale View Lodge because it had the best masala tea I have ever had, with fresh graded ginger at the bottom of the cup, and outstanding dal bhat with spick relish on the side hot enough to make your eyes water.  You may be wondering why it was called Fish Tale View, it is because fish tale is the English translation of Machhapuchare, which, as the name implies, you can see from the guest house.

A word about having this experience with my mom (amaa in Nepali, just like in Burmese):  She is such a badass!  She was ahead of me for most of the uphill hiking, I was only able to catch up on the downhills or when the path was narrow because she is much more careful.  The bridges were her biggest challenge, especially the really long ones that sway in the wind and have lots of prayer flags attached (so you can pray that you make it to the other side).  Throughout most of the journey she was surrounded by 20 and 30somethings and I’m sure she wondered at least once a day whose idea it was to come out here and do this.  Everyone we met, Nepali and tourist alike, thought it was great to see a mother and daughter on the trek together (amaa and churie).  On the top of Poon Hill, when we climbed up at sunrise to see the beautiful views of all the surrounding mountains, a group of Israeli girls told her that they wish their mothers could/ would do this with them.  

I could fill many more pages with the adventures of the last few weeks, but you don’t have time to read it and I don’t have time to write it, at least not now.  We have to return some rented gear, get some pictures printed, replenish the cash supply and meet our new friends for pizza.  The weather as absolutely gorgeous today Lakeside and I wish you were all here to enjoy it with us.

Much love from the other side of the planet,
-michelle